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86cutlass
New User
| Posts: 2
| Joined: 06/07
Posted: 06/18/07 12:55 PM
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this is my first set of wire wheels so im new to these... but im having a problem removing the drivers side rear wheel ... it has a hole in the side wall. so im tryin to get it fixed but i can get the knock off, off.. i have the hex style knock off ... i got the key and a lead hammer.. but im pounding the *** out of it and its not commin off im hitting it to the "right" the oppisite way, from the way the wheel rotates.. thanks for any help/ tips anyone can tell me..
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86cutlass
New User
| Posts: 2
| Joined: 06/07
Posted: 06/18/07 12:56 PM
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oh and it has "LEFT" stamped into the knockoff
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Oktesica
New User
| Posts: 2
| Joined: 06/07
Posted: 06/18/07 01:25 PM
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On the hex you will see that the arrow tells you which way to put them on and go the opposite man, and it's sometimes easy if you lift the car a little (for me at least because the weight of the car and tilt affects it.)
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Oktesica
New User
| Posts: 2
| Joined: 06/07
Posted: 06/18/07 01:37 PM
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On the hex you will see that the arrow tells you which way to put them on and go the opposite man, and it's sometimes easy if you lift the car a little (for me at least because the weight of the car and tilt affects it.)
Knock It Off What's so significant about a putting on a set of knockoff wire wheels? Nothing, if you know how to bolt them up. If you've never bolted on a set of knockoffs, you better pay attention as you could very easily lose your wheels when cruising down the boulevard.
If you buy a set of imported knockoff wheels, they will not come with instructions. The manufacturers don't think that you need them. Well, some of these manufacturers should think twice. There are many consequences if you bolt them on the wrong way. We've personally seen mishaps that could have been prevented by following a few of the tips that we're going to talk about here.
The first mistake is one of the most common, people bolting them on backwards. This isn't uncommon for the guy who's never owned a set of knockoff wire wheels before. By "backwards," we mean when people take the "right side" adapters that engage with the hub of the wire wheel and put them on the "left side" of the suspension; a common thing that can be avoided.
4.As we mentioned, most knockoffs will have markings indicating which way they go on. 5.The knockoff that locks the wheel in place also has the side that it belongs to, right or left. 6.Here's a look at a new lead hammer and one that's been used on a couple of occasions.
When people chrome plate the adapters, they sometimes get them back from the chrome shop with no markings. Don't panic if this happens to you. It can be confusing but solved by checking the actual knockoffs. Most knockoffs are marked "right" or "left" on the inside or outside. Most of the knockoffs out there will also have arrows on which way to hammer them on. It's good to have an extra lead hammer or two on hand as the average lifespan of a lead hammer is usually only a few installs of the wheel.
1.This is the standard knockoff wheel that's being used on most traditional lowriders. 2.When you don't torque your lug nuts correctly, you could have them come loose as they on this vehicle. Overtightening your lug nuts or not torquing them down properly can snap the studs and maybe lose the wheel, as happened to this ride while driving on the highway.
You should torque the lugs down properly. If not, they could come loose. If you overtighten them, it could snap the studs once the car starts rolling. Also, for you lowriders, all of the added weight of hydraulics adds extra pressure on the lugs. The best thing to do is torque down the nuts to the factory recommendations that can usually be found in the vehicle's owner's manual.
Always use a little lube on the knockoff tread located on the inside of the knockoff to prevent them from seizing on to the adapter. We've seen cases where the wheels had to be cut off because the knockoff had seized on. This tends to happen because of the different materials that both pieces are made of.
7.This sledgehammer is what you do not want to use to tighten or loosen your wheels. They will cause major damage to the finish of your wheel and can also bend the ears of the knockoff. 8.The reason that the industry uses lead hammers is that lead's a softer material so it doesn't bend or mar the finish of the knockoff. 9.Tighten your knockoff with the tire off of the ground to ensure that the knockoff pulls the hub and locks it into place with the adapter.
When you first put on a set of knockoff wheels, go around the block or put on a couple of miles of regular driving before you start hopping or three-wheeling. When you get back home, go through and hammer on them to make sure that they didn't come loose. Usually, when you do this, they lock and stay in place. You should follow the same steps when you take off the wheels for maintenance or when you pull your wheel off of the adapter. If you're driving and you start hearing a clunking noise, make sure that you safely pull over as sometimes this is the wheel knockoff coming loose.
10.As you can see, these knockoffs have a taper to them which wedges into the hub, keeping them from coming loose. 11.All you need is a little muscle to get that knockoff where it needs to be. 12.This a view of the treads that still have a little grease or lube to prevent them from seizing onto the adapter.
13.As we mentioned earlier, you can't use long lug nuts as they will not allow the hub to engage with the adapter. 14.The factory-style lug nuts for steel rims are what most manufacturers recommend for the adapters. 15.Here's a look at the adapter. You can see the grooves which lock the hub and adapter together.
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Sp
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Posted: 06/19/07 11:46 PM
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Thats why you get REAL daytons dogg with OG 2 or 3 prong knock-offs *** cheap wire wheels DADDYMUNOZ13
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Posted: 07/09/07 01:29 AM
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What Up,I'm Danny, To Help You, Theres A Arrow That Says On To Take The Hex Off Hit The Oposite Direction Of The Arrow,Hope This Helps You, Danny
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outitan
New User
| Posts: 3
| Joined: 09/08
Posted: 09/29/08 09:56 AM
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Same problem on my front passenger side. I'm pounding in the correct direction but have only got a quarter turn before the knock off started to round out a bit. Now I can't hit the key without it flying off unless I hold the other side of the wrench. My lead hammer is already wrecked after doing the other three wheels because the previous owner didn't grease them correctly. All four knock offs were a little beat up but came off with patience.
I've gotten this to move a bit (less than a quarter turn) but now I can't hit it solid with out the wrench flying across the garage. Any ideas on how to get the hex knock-off off when its rounding? I plan on putting on some with wings so not worried about saving the hex head.
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outitan
New User
| Posts: 3
| Joined: 09/08
Posted: 09/29/08 10:00 AM
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Update: These are 22" Dayton's with a 4" diameter knock off.
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cristina
New User
| Posts: 9
| Joined: 01/08
Posted: 09/29/08 04:44 PM
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If you want those rims off park that ride out there by by Florencia and Compton in South Central Los Angeles.
Those Crips will get it off and sell it right back to you for the price of a rock.
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outitan
New User
| Posts: 3
| Joined: 09/08
Posted: 09/30/08 08:53 AM
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Laugh, no doubt.
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