okay im looking at pump components i can tell the different in the blocks and the motors!! but when looking at the pumps i can't tell any obvious difference between say an #11 and a #13  
what is the numbering system is it by like output per revolution or lbs of pressure!! whats the going on?  and i also figure the pumps are submerged in oil which resides in the tank portion on the opposite side of the hydrualic pump assembly!!!!

and i assume that slowdown valve can be place on both the pressure and return sides to slowdown or speed up the up and down action? would that be correct!! and i would guess a spline key would go between the motor and the pump its self correct?   Sorry about all these probably silly [ for lack of a better word] questions!! im just an inquistive dude lol   been working on cars for 14 years lol trying to have fun with it now haha  thanks alot!! keep riding and i hope to be joining yall soon--- chris  

The numbers on the pump heads relate to the gallons per minute that pump head will flow at a givin rpm. The higher the pump head number, the more volumn that pump will push. Slow downs are used on the return side ( so your car doesn't crash to the ground). I never seen one on the pressure side. I guess you could but that would put ALOT of stress on your pump and slow down your up motion.  

sweet  alright now heres another question i know one pump can take care of a few cylinders simultaneously like front and back  or side to side now heres the question can that one pump take care of two different cylinder one at a time? like say the same pump powers the front two cylinders and i wanted just to raise the front passenger side without disturbing the driver side cylinder  and how is it possible!! When i start asking to many questions please let me know!!!!  Chris  

thats what these forums are for.. I am learning too.. Their is always some one with the same ????.  

Plumbing is the cooLEST PART YOU CAN DO AlL KINDS OF THINGS WITH ONE PUMP, BUT ITS MORE STRESS ON ONE MOTOR AND ONE PUMPHEAD, BUT BY USING MANIFOld bLOCKS, Y Blocks, x bLOCKS, EXTRA DUMPS, and shut off vaLVES YOU CAN DO SOME PRETTY COOl stuff. Start off with a standard 2 pump street kit then start changing things around to get the extra inch every LITTle thing heLPS like elIMINATE AlL THE NINETY DEGREE FITTINGS RUN ONE DUMP AND ONE HOSE TO THE FRONT SPlit with a y bLOCK UPGRADE YOUR Plumbing and gears etc. thats when aLl the fun stuff happens  

sounds SWEET!! the y block thing is why i was asking pretty much cause my homeboy has one hose running to the front and y'ed off to both cylinders!! now unless both cylinders are full or absolutely empty the body rolls pretty badly around curves and stuff!!  maybe some checkvalves would eliminate this situation but there might be another way.. I'm a computer programmer/tech dude who loves my cars    in my field theres several ways to fix any situation!!  so maybe running a few different dumps and things would work!  now i was told that dumps controlled the down action but i would guess by looking at pics in lovely LRM that they also control the ups? ture or false? and also for a single pump to control a few cylinders would you not have to modify the tanks maybe for extra volume to support the extra needs?
I know in performance engines on dry sump oiling systems you can hold the oil outside the motor to keep and cool the oil. so i was considering making a tank to hold extra oil that would then be conected to the pumps via hosesagain to make sure thees enough?  Good idea? If i confused you i am so sorry lol i needs some sleep!!

 Chris  

The body roll on your friends car is probably from have supper weak springs, or air in the lines. In normal street applications or for most anyones setups, dumps are only used to control the return side. You can use them on the pressure side but you need to feel the basics first. They look like they control the up but because the pressure side runs through.

The pressure flows through the dump body and around the needle to the other side. The needle does not bock the entire passage. The needle mades a fluid tight seal to the lower port which would be the return. When the dump solenoid is activated, the needle will move in a upward motion and open the lower port causing the pressure to release into the tank. A pump tank has plenty fluid capacity to operate a pair of cylindres of moderate size. It can be used for four cylinders but they will have to be fairly small 6" or 8"  

unless you bypass your dumps    

for body roll there is equalizers but his roll is comin from the front huh? Im assuming he either pulled the front sway bar off or the sway bar bushings need checked, you only use a dump in the pressure on continous like a tractor, one pump u can hav 3 switches front back and pancake just like your homies front hose do the same to the rear but when you hit the front or back switch up it will lift the whole car but you can dump front and back seperate if you really got technical you could put shut off valves on top of the cylinders shut the front just the back lifts extra oil resevoir is not needed maybe some oil coolers, with the car lowered and oil filled thru the lines and tank nearly topped off its good to go, the one pump I have done on the caddy is pretty cool 2 pressures two side returns but Im keepin it preety simple these pics are old now I have a gold motor and little gold plating here and there, Im workin on the other two just need a couple more parts..... the other two are just as cool or cooler maybe Im not done yet.  

click the pics to make them bigger
 

How did you do the whole clicky thingy with your pic  

thats the only way I can do it all the pics show up in them little boxes no matter how big it is on photobucket it said all pictures are autimatically resized  

sweet pics!!! looks like lots of time!!!

i was thinking that hydraulics were more like air bags, meaning with airbags you can simply put a pair of solenoids in each corner and activate the ones that you want to activate, to get the desired effect of course using one pressure source!!

But it seems with hydros while possible its more intricate!!  

okay with the front/back on one pump!! to raise just the front in this situation you would simple activate the pump and the dump or dumps that control the rears, correct? but it seems in this situation that you run the risk of dropping the rear slightly, if the rear cylinder had pressure, or maybe get a little higher depending on how you pipe it. Is this accurate?   I think im starting to get this stuff    chris  

you hit the switch up you go up (PUMP) you hit the switch down attivates dump you go down with one pressure source (1 pump) ran like your buddys with one dump controling the front one for the back the problem is when you hit the front switch up the whole car is gonna lift